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Chef’s Corner-Bits and
Bites, by Chef Michael Hutchings
What makes a legend?
Wolfgang Puck is among a sauté
pan full of super-celbrity chefs whose name is known worldwide.
To many, he represents the best in good cooking. That name now
refers not only to the world-famous chef himself but also to
the culinary empire he has built since the early 1980s: the
group of fine dining restaurants through which he first rose
to prominence, developed in partnership with Barbara Lazaroff;
his extensive catering and events business, which gains international
attention through its flagship event, the annual Governor's
Ball following the Oscars; and Wolfgang Puck Worldwide, Inc.,
the corporation that controls the Wolfgang Puck brand in areas
as diverse as casual and quick-service dining, consumer packaged
foods, cookware, book publishing, television, radio and internet
programming, and other franchising, licensing, and merchandising
activities. We see him in the grocery stores on soup cans, pizza
boxes, Home Shopping Network, the after Oscar party, Food Network
channel, celerity chef events and in his restaurants.What a
long ways chef’s have come from being back of the house
technicians to media darlings and masters of large culinary
empires.
My first encounter with Wolfgang
was in 1974 at the Pomona College. The college had a guest chef
series that I had subscribed to and Wolfgang was doing the dinner
at the college. The only dish I recall was “Ouefs a la
Neige”, meringue poached in milk, drizzled with caramel
and almonds and served on creme Anglaise. Even then he had star
power.
At that time, he was just being
noticed in Los Angeles by the budding food community where he
worked at Ma Maison. Ma Maison was a “rustic” French
bistro a short distance from Paramount studios. At Ma Maison,
Puck was at the vanguard of bringing Mediterranean-style cooking
to the American public. He emphasized the casual approach of
rustic cuisine that favored an "open" kitchen plan
and the wood-burning oven.
I went to meet with him in 1976
to ask either for a job or a suggestion on where to train in
France. Wolfgang was very generous and called the restaurant
in Paris called Maxim’s. I didn’t work there but
I was impressed with the gesture.
While observing in the kitchen that evening, I recall him telling
the waiter that the restaurant opened at 6:00 and Carol Burnet
would have to wait.
In 1982 Wolfgang broke away from
Ma Maison and opened Spago. That success was soon followed by
Chinoise on Main, Postrio and numerous cafes, food products,
cook books and food kiosks. The rest is a culinary legend. He
now oversees and empire that reportedly grosses over $375 million
in 2002 with more that 4,900 employees.
Toques off to the legend.
Tastefully yours,
Chef Michael Hutchings
Michael’s Catering
www.michaelscateringsb.com
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